HISTORY

 

The area known as Albania today has been populated since prehistoric times. In antiquity, much of it was settled by the Illyrians, who are the ancestors of present-day Albanians. It was around the turn of the third millennium B.C. that an Indo-European population settled there. The result of this melding of cultures was the creation of a population incorporating the unique cultural and linguistic characteristics of the whole Balkan Peninsula. Based on this ancient population, the Illyrian people developed through the second millennium and the first century B.C. After its collapse in the year 30 B.C., Illyria came under the control of the Roman Empire. Upon the division of the Roman Empire in 395 A.D., Illyria became a part of the Byzantine Empire.

 

The Greeks arrived in the 5th century B.C. to establish self-governing colonies in Epidamnos (now Durrës), Apollonia, and Butrint, and they established an expansive trading system with the Illyrians, who formed tribal states in the IV century B.C. The expanding Illyrian kingdom clashed with Rome in 229 B.C. A lengthy struggle ensued and resulted in the extension of Roman control over the entire Balkan area by 167 B.C. Under the Romans, Illyrians enjoyed relative peace and prosperity. Large agricultural estates flourished under slave labour. Like the Greeks, the Illyrians managed to preserve their own language and traditions despite centuries of Roman rule. Over time the people gradually replaced their old gods with the new Christian faith championed by Emperor Constantine. Trade continued to flourish during this time. The main route between Rome and Constantinople, the Via Egnatia, passed through the port at Durrës. When the Roman Empire was divided in 395 A.D., Illyria fell within the Eastern Empire, later known as the Byzantine Empire. Three early Byzantine Emperors (Anastasius I, Justin I and Justinian I) were Illyrian in origin. Ongoing invasions by Visigoths, Huns, Ostrogoths, and Slavs continued through the 5th and 6th centuries.

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In 1344, Albania was annexed by Serbia. Their control of the area was brief, though, as the Turks defeated the Serbians in 1389. At this point, the Venetians controlled some coastal towns but with the Serbian defeat, the entire region became vulnerable to Ottoman attack. From 1443 to 1468, an Albanian nobleman named Skanderbeg (Gjergj Kastrioti) united warring Albanian princes and led a resistance effort against the Turks from his castle at Kruja. Skanderbeg won all 25 battles he fought against the Turks and kept them at bay for more than two decades. He would go on to become a national hero, but upon his death, the Ottomans overwhelmed Albanian resistance and took control of the country in 1479. For more than 400 years Albania was under Ottoman rule. Muslim citizens were favoured and were exempted from the Janissary system, which dictated that Christian households give up one of their sons to convert to Islam and serve in the army. Consequently, many Albanians abandoned their Christian faith and converted to Islam. The subsequent insurrection efforts eventually brought about the proclamation of the independence of Albania in 1912.

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King Zog I ruled for nearly fourteen years until the country was invaded by Italy in 1939 and eventually occupied by Mussolini's forces. German forces occupied portions of Albania during this time, as well. A resistance against this foreign occupation was formed and became known as the Antifascist National Liberation front.

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In November of 1944, the occupying forces were eventually expelled and the Communist Party assumed power. Shortly thereafter, a totalitarian regime was established under the communist leader Enver Hoxha. For nearly fifty years, the regime enforced a policy of strict isolationism. This left the country in an extraordinarily impoverished state when it finally emerged from this isolation upon Hoxha's death in 1991. The Democratic Party assumed control at this point and led the country from 1991 until 1997. 1997 saw a period of great financial and political upheaval as the collapse of vast pyramid schemes threw society into a brief state of chaos. The Socialist Party guided the country through this pivotal time and remained in power until 2005. Following the most recent elections in July 2005, the Democratic Party regained political power and continues to lead Albania today. Looking to the future, Albania's leaders hope to integrate the country into the European Union (EU). Albania is now a member of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) and also part of many other international organizations.

 

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GEOGRAPHY

 

Albania is a small country with a landmass of 28.748 sq km (about 11.000 sq miles). It is situated in the western part of the Balkan Peninsula in the south-eastern part of Europe. It shares borders with Montenegro and Kosovo to the North and Northeast, Macedonia to the East and Greece to the South. To the West, Albania has a coast that adjoins the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. The Adriatic separates it from Italy via the Strait of Otranto (72 km/45 mi).Much of Albania's surface is mountainous - the average height above sea level is 708 m, (2,336 ft) and its highest peak, Mount Korab on the Macedonian border, is 2.753 m (9,085 ft). Most of the population lives in the south-central lowlands and on the coastal plain. The country has many rivers which originate in the high mountains and pass through steep gorges before reaching the plain and making their way to the sea.

 

Most of the main rivers have been extensively managed, usually to generate hydro-electricity. Albania has nearly 450 km (280 mi) of seacoast, with the Adriatic running from the Montenegrin border south to the Bay of Vlora, where the Ionian Sea begins. The Ionian Cost is very rugged with rocky coves along the narrow coastal strip and steep mountains rising almost straight up almost much of its length. The highest point along this stretch is at the Llogara Pass, over 1.000m (3,300ft) high. Geologic activity and erosion have created many caves at the base of these cliffs, some of which were inhabited in prehistoric times. On the other hand, the Adriatic coast is a low-lying one, with large protected bays (such as those of Vlora and Durrës), which have been used as harbors since ancient times. The rivers that flow into the Adriatic have created fertile alluvial plains on these lowlands and, at their mouths, exceptionally rich wetlands, which are home to many waterfowl and migratory birds.

In Albania there are also a number of lakes.

 

The most significant are:

Lake Shkodra is the largest lake in the Balkans and straddles the border between Albania and Montenegro. Thousands of cormorants winter on this lake each year. It is relatively shallow and is fed by many different rivers as well as by springs, making it quite varied in its aquatic life, with various species of carp and trout in its waters.

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Lake Ohrid is shared between Albania and Macedonia in the southeastern part of Albania. Around the lake shore there are some tourist areas such as Lini, Pojska, Pogradec, Tushemisht, and Drilon. It is exceptionally deep and fed mainly by springs around the edge of the lake and on its floor.

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Above Lake Ohrid lies Prespa Lake, which is distinguished by its solitude and beautiful landscapes. In this lake there are very important breeding populations of Dalmatian and white pelicans. Lakes Ohrid and Prespa are between two and four million years old and unique species of fish have evolved in them, among them the delicious koran and belushka.

Over a third of the territory of Albania - about a million hectares (2.5 million acres) - is forested and the country is very rich in flora. About 3.000 different species of plants grow in Albania, many of which are used for medicinal purposes. The forests are home to a wide range of animals such as wolves, bears, wild boars, and chamois. lynx, wildcats, pine martens and polecats are rarer, but survive in some parts of the country.

 

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ALBANIAN CITIES

 

Tirana

Tirana has been the capital of Albania since 1920. It is relatively new city established in 1614 from Sulejman Bargjini, feudal of the area at the time. The city began to grow at the beginning of the 18th century. "Tirana ", it is thought that comes from the word " Theranda", mentioned in the ancient Greek and Latin sources, that aborigines called Te Ranat, because the field was formed as a result of stiff materials that the waters from the surrounding mountains brought. Today Tirana is not only the most populated city in Albania, but also the biggest political and economic centre in the country. The Adriatic Sea and Dajti mountains are near to the city. It takes you less than one-hour drive to reach the sea. A Great Park with an artificial lake is located immediately at the southern part of the city.

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What to see:

The Mosque of Ethem Bey is situated just at the centre of Tirana. It was constructed in 1789. Together with the Clock Tower (1830) they make an important historic part of Tirana.

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Ministries represent architectonic values. They were built in the year 1930, when Albania was a kingdom. After the Second World War several buildings were erected: The Palace of Culture, The Palace of Congresses, The National Historic Museum, The Centre of International Culture etc.

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The bridge of Tabakeve is situated along the boulevard "Zhan Dark". It belongs to the XVIII century.

The fortress of Pertrela. It is located at south of Tirana on the right side of national  road linking capital with the city of Elbasan. It was built up by the middle age. The castle was under the command of Scanderbeg sister, Mamica Kastrioti. Petrela castle used to control the Egnatia road, the Durres - Tirane branch, a part that for that time had a particular importance. This castle was also part of the signaling and defending system of the castle of Kruja. These castles used to communicate with each other through fire signals.

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The fortress of Preza belongs to the XV century. It has a very nice and dominant position in front of Kruja Mountain. This castle is declared as a "Monument of Culture".

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Martyrs Cemetery which contains the "Mother Albania" monument.

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The Tomb of Kapllan Pasha, built in 1814. Its honors Kaplan Pasha, who ruled Tirana in the early 19th century.

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Museums:

National Historic Museum 

Archaeological Museum

Gallery of Fine Arts

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Vlora

Vlora is a coastal city. It is not only one of the major ports, but also of great historical importance as it was here that in 1912 the Assembly was convened to proclaim Albania as an independent  state and to set up the first National Government headed by Ismail Qemali. Thus, Vlore became the first capital city in independent Albania.

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One can learn more about the background of this event at the Museum of Independence. On a hill above the city one can enjoy the religious place of "Kuzum Baba". From there you can see the beach and the view of the whole city.

 

What to see:

Ethnographic Museum

Historic Museum

The Museum of Independence

Kanina Castle is believed to have been erected in the 3rd century B.C.

Apollonia represents one of the most important archaeological sites of Albania. The most interesting objects to be visited are the magnificent wall of Agonothetes II Century B.C.

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Pojan Monastery is not far away from the ancient town of Apollonia and it is famous for the beautiful St. Mary's Chapel. This is an ancient monastery and was reconstructed by the Byzantine Emperor, Andronicus Palaeologus the Second.

Muradie Mosque is a sultan-style mosque, with a dome that was built in the 2nd half of the 16th century. The design and construction of this mosque were carried out by Sinan, an architect of Albanian origin who was one of the great mosque builders in the Ottoman Empire.

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Oricum is an ancient town that used to be a civilized urban centre and has various archaeological ruins, such as part of an Orchestra, a small theatre, which is thought to have seated 400 spectators, traces of wall ruins and streets that are clearly seen, albeit lying under the water of the lagoon, and the Marmiroi Church. This is a church of dating back to the early Byzantine period.

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Ali Pasha's Castle-Porto Palermo Bay. This is a small castle located on a lovely  peninsula in the small tectonic bay of Porto Palermo. Ali Pasha built the castle in honor of his wife Vasiliqi.

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Church of St. Stephan, Monastery, Church of Panajia (Dhërmi). The village of Dhërmi goes back to at least the first century B.C. The village used to have 31 churches. The icons of the Church of St. Stephen were painted on the 18th century. The church is a place of pilgrimage every mid-August when religious rites are performed on the day of St. Mary.

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Between Tirana and Vlora there is the district of Fier, which boasts different historical sites with great interest. The most important are:

Historic Museum in Fier

Archaeological site of Bylis, in Hekal village

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Berat

It known as "the city of one-thousand windows" and is declared as a museum city. It is on the slopes of the Tomorri mount where the castle of the city rises in a predominant hill. Inside its walls there are dwelling houses and the "Onufri Museum". Paintings and icons by the outstanding Albanian painter are also exhibited there. The old part of the city has some religious buildings like churches and mosques.

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What to see:

The Museum of Iconography "Onufri"

The Museum of Ethnography

The Castle of Berat is a fortress overlooking the town. There are fourteen churches inside the castle, which have made this castle very famous. One of them is the Church of St. Triadha, dating back to the end of the thirteenth century and beginning of the fourteenth century. Very interesting frescoes are found inside it. Behind the Church of St. Todri, there are the churches of St. Kolli, St. Constantine, St. Helen, St. Mary Vllaherna, and others.

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Ruins of the White Mosque. Its internal walls are found inside the castle of Berat. They are built on the foundations of Illyrian walls, followed by reconstructions in Byzantine and Ottoman style.

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The Church of Saint Mehilli, (Michael) is well known for combining European and Byzantine construction techniques;

The Church of Saint Triadha (Trinity). Speculations are that the chapel might have been built on the foundations of the ruins of a pagan temple. The temple was built to honor the goddess Artemis, from which the present name Ardenicë derives.

 

Durres

The principal port of Durres is the second largest city of Albania. The city was colonized by the colonists from Corinth and Korkyra in 627 B.C. It was named Epidamnus, which later became Dyrrachium. The most important object is the amphitheatre, the largest in Balkan with 15,000 seats, dating back to the 2nd century AD and containing an Early Christian crypt with a rare wall mosaics . Between the 1st and 3rd centuries Durres was an important port and trading centre on the Via Egnatia trading route, between Rome and Byzantuim (Istanbul). After a great number of earthquakes, much of ancient Durres sank into the sea or collapsed and was subsequently built over. Today the city is well known for the nearby beach resort of Durres and its sandy beaches and warm sea waters.

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What to see:

The Archaeological Museum

The Amphitheater, partially excavated starting since 1960, has a seating capacity between 15.000-20.000 people and is situated on the middle of the modern city;

Byzantine Forum

Venetian Torra (small castle open as a bar)

Ancient city wall

The Exhibition of Folk Culture

The mosaic of Arapaj, Arapaj village (it can be opened only with special permit)

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Kruja

Kruja is a medieval town near Tirana. The name of Kruja is closely connected with the name of the National Hero, George Kastriot Scanderbeg, who fought against the Ottomans for 25 years in succession, defending European civilization from their threat in the 15th century. At a prominent and strategic place near the city, there is a castle, within is housed the Scanderbeg Museum (National Museum). On the way to the castle there is a medieval bazaar.

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What to see:

Museum of Gjergj Kastrioti Scanderbeg

Ethnographic Museum

Archaeological site of Albanopoli, in village of Zgerdhesh

Traditional Bazaar.

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Korca

Is the largest city of south eastern part of Albania. It is situated at the foot of Morava Mountain on a plateau 800 m above sea level. It became an important trading and handicraft centre in the 18th century due to the development of trade with neighbouring regions. The museum for Medieval Art is in Korça. It presents the spiritual and material culture of the Albanian people. There are also the Museum of Education, where the first Albanian School were opened in 1878 and the new museum of "Bratko Collections" with antiquaries from the Far East.

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What to see:

The Museum of Medieval Arts

The Gallery " Guri Madhi"

The "Bratko" Museum of antiquaries and collections from Far East

National Museum of Education

The Archaeological Museum

Watering Greensward (a suite place for emigrants, where young ladies use to shed tears).

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Pogradec

Pogradec is one of the most charming tourist resorts in Albania because of its position on Lake Ohrid which distinguishes itself for clear water and mountain views. The Koran fish, similar to trout, is found in this lake. Besides the beautiful beach, your stay in Pogradec is made more interesting by the excursion to the tourist centre in Driloni (5 km eastward) surrounded by ornamental plants and trees.

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What to see:

The mosaics of Lin, in the village of Lin at north of Pogradec

The sources of Drilon

The monumental graves of Selca e Poshtme, in village of Selca

The Goliku Bridge on the old Via Egnatia.

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Gjirokastra

One of the most important cities of southern Albania has been declared a "Museum City". It is built on the slope of a mountain and is known for its characteristic and narrow stone paved streets. The dwelling houses have the form of medieval towers consisting a building ensemble with characteristic architecture. The castle of the city stands like a balcony over the city. It enables the visitors to enjoy a very beautiful landscape. The National Museum of Weapons is housed in the interior of the castle. Weapons are produced and used by the Albanian since the ancient times are displayed there.

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What to see:

The Museum of Weapons is situated inside the Castle of Gjirokastra. It shows the development of weapons in Albania, from antiquity to the present.)

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The Ethnographic Museum. It is otherwise known as the birth-house of the former dictator Enver Hoxha. It is currently visited by many tourists interested in Albanian tradition, culture, and ethnography.

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The Castle of Gjirokastra is a grand fortress with a fantastic location, dominating the whole valley of the Drino. Its construction continued for several centuries and only in the twelfth century did take the shape of a castle. When exiting the castle, visitors walk along a road on both sides of which are 200 stone houses;

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The Mosque of Pajazut Khan is within the castle as well. To the north there is the old market, called the Castle Market.

The Church of Labova e Kryqit, in the village with same name;

The archaeological site of Antigonea, in the village of Saraqinisht;

The ruins of archaeological site of Adrianapol, in the village of Sofratike.

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Saranda

Saranda is most southern city of Albania. Situated opposite of Corfu Island, Saranda is now mostly visited by day trippers who come to enjoy this previously inaccessible resort. It is one of the most tourist sites in Albania and is very preferable by "honeymooners". Near Saranda there are the ruins of the ancient city of Butrint and the spring of "Blue Eye".

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What to see:

Ethnographic Museum;

The Archaeological Museum of Butrint;

The ruins of ancient town of Onhezmi in Saranda;

The monastery of Mesopotam is located to the South of Finiq. In earlier times, this was a pagan temple. It is one of the largest and oldest churches of its period. Its icons depict mostly quadruped and mammal motifs. In its main hall, a mosaic depicts a dragon with spread-out wings. Visitors can see the ruins of the old surrounding walls of the monastery with seven quadrangular towers. These walls predate the church.

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The Quadrangular Castle of Butrint. This small castle of Ali Pasha Tepelena built on 1807-1808 is located on a cape jetting out into the sea. It was built to prevent the French from taking Butrint from their base in Corfu.

 

Shkodra

It is one of the most major cities in the north - western part of the country. It is situated near the lake sharing the same name and along the road that leads to Montenegro. It is an ancient city with rich history. One can find old characteristic houses where wood and other traditional motifs are used. Near the city there is the castle of Rozafa built on a rocky hill from where you can see attractive and beautiful views. During your stay you can visit the Historical Museum of the city. Shkodra is a good point to start your trip to Albanian Alps.

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What to see:

Historic Museum has a number of sections on archaeology, history and ethnography. It also has its own library with a considerable number of Albanian and foreign books-about 15,000 titles altogether. The library is a great source for students of Albanology;

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The Castle of Rozafa rises on a rocky hill to the west of Shkodra. According to the legend, Rozafa, the wife of the youngest of three brothers, accepted to be buried alive in the walls of the castle. The brothers had been building the castle in the day only to find that the walls had collapsed during the night. At the entrance to the castle one can see the Rozafa bas-relief. According to popular imagination, the lime water that leaks at the main entrance is the milk running from Rozafa's breast which was left outside the wall so that she could feed her new-born baby.

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Museum of Rozafa Castle explains the various periods in the life of the castle;

The Lead Mosque is a famous cultural monument in the city of Shkodra that was built in 1773 in the style of the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.

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The Church of Shirgji is located 20 km from the city of Shkodra, close to the village of Obot. It is built in Romanic-Gothic style. The Shirgji church used to be a favourite of Albanian and Montenegrin princes and was especially used for wedding.

The Mesi Bridge is located about 8 km from Shkodra, on the Kir River. There used to be three bridges on this river but only this one has survived to this day. The Mesi Bridge is a unique bridge and considered a 'cultural monument'.

The Illyrian ruins of Gajtan.

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The ruins of medieval city of Sarda are found in an island of the artificial lake of Vau i Dejës, built in 1971. Among the remains are the defense walls, church ruins and the gate to the Dukagjini palace. Sarda is a very picturesque location.

On the way from Tirana to Shkodra in the town of Lezhe is interesting to visit the memorial dedicated to burial place of Albanian National Hero, Scanderbeg.